America, its actions and its enemies all seem to be fairly common themes on this year’s Fringe, so it comes as no surprise to find a show from over the pond centered on food. What is more surprising is that the food in question is being used, fairly successfully, as an allegory for America’s imperialism.
On the face of it this is simply another sugar-fuelled, perma-smile tale of one Yank Fatty, the inventor of World Burger and saviour of American society, that follows his dream through inception, realisation and eventual destruction, told in a blend of Broadway musical, rock opera and twisted Gap adverts, but peel back the thin veneer of fast food and there is a fairly insightful political commentary hiding somewhere among the cholesterol and Special Sauce.
As well as deriding US imperialism and their be-like-us-or-we’ll-bomb-you foreign policy, Food - A Sixteen Course Musical also takes in a bit of anti-globalisation with a healthy sideswipe at some of the now ubiquitous fast food chains. Their conclusion may not be entirely palatable to every other nation, but it is nice to see Americans poking fun at themselves – if nothing else it gives us all a bit of a breather.
On the whole, Food Is very enjoyable, as most of the numbers are well written, well delivered and superbly choreographed, but there are a few that just don’t work and clash badly with the rest of the ensemble. One would be tempted to cut them, as the piece is a tad too long, but their removal would ruin the narrative so you just have to grin and bear it.
Despite these criticisms, and a weird dream sequence that would convince William Burroughs to take it easy, Food remains highly enjoyable and entertaining. By no means a highlight of the Fringe, but something a little different and worth a look.
4/5
Richard Biggs
